Trip Report – Aconcagua Expedition 2026
By: Jakob Urth
Location: Aconcagua – standing at 6,962 meters, it is the highest mountain on the South American continent. The mountain is situated in Argentina, close to the Chilean border and, loosely described, in the heart of the massive Andes range, which stretches approximately 7,500 km from south to north along the west coast of the continent. Just so we all know exactly where we are.
It is January, and 2025 has just turned into 2026. A new year has kicked off, which for me means it’s time for the first expedition of the year. In a way, Argentina and Mount Aconcagua have been on my schedule nonstop since the early 2000s. This year is no exception.
As a guide and expedition leader, a vast amount of work goes into a trip like this. It is a high mountain, and the responsibilities are many when it comes to ensuring an expedition runs safely for both the participants and my local guides. It is precisely that work and all the shifting variables that make it interesting for me to travel to the other side of the globe time and time again to climb the same great mountain. The participants, the weather, the team, and our collaboration are what shape an expedition; with a healthy dose of experience in the preparation phase, the foundation is laid for a successful ascent.
"I arrived in Argentina and the city of Mendoza a few days ahead of my strong team of guests. As a guide, I have to double-check all the prep work and ensure that food, equipment, logistics, hotels, etc., are functioning more or less as agreed. This is my home turf, and the somewhat relaxed South American attitude toward things doesn't challenge me as much as it used to."
Another point for me, and perhaps the most important of all: my local guides. Without a strong local setup and the right people on my team, this would be a difficult task to lift alone. For the past 12-14 seasons, I have worked with the same local lead guide—a collaboration that has evolved into a close friendship. It is relationships like this that make the work I do incredibly rewarding. It is also one of the reasons for our great, repeated success on Aconcagua specifically: 80-100% of participants reach the summit year after year. This is truly exceptional for this mountain.
"I almost hear it before I see it... The enormous condor soars in wide circles above us. It follows us, perhaps wondering what we are doing right here—in the heart of the Andes at nearly 5,400 meters. I’ve seen condors before, and every time I am equally captivated by this giant bird of prey. Weighing up to 15 kg with a wingspan of over 3 meters, it is a significant presence, even here where we are surrounded by massive, beautiful peaks. We are in Camp 2, and very much on the condor's home turf. The camp is fittingly named Nido de Cóndores (The Condor’s Nest). With good reason, I think, feeling once again privileged and grateful for this small, unique experience."
This trip is starting according to plan. After the team's arrival and a few good days in the city of Mendoza—surrounded by vineyards, 25-degree heat, atmosphere, and great food—it is now time to start the actual trek toward the foot of Aconcagua, heading for our Base Camp: Plaza de Mulas at approximately 4,300 meters.
On big mountains and expeditions in general, establishing Base Camp is a vital part of the process for achieving success later in the trip. As expedition leader, it is my responsibility to ensure all participants have optimal conditions to rest and recover between our days up on the mountain. Mountaineering is often a process adjusted according to the mountain's altitude, the participants' experience, and the weather. As a guide, the weather is assessed several times daily; I maintain radio contact with my staff in Base Camp and receive weather reports via GPS/satellite. It’s all about positioning the group for a potential summit push. Here, the weather and the mountain make the rules.
On Aconcagua, we establish three camps on the mountain:
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Base Camp – Plaza de Mulas (Approx. 4,300 m): This is where we "live" and prepare for the hard work higher up.
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Camp 1 – Camp Canada (Approx. 5,000 m).
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Camp 2 – Nido de Cóndores (Approx. 5,400 m).
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Camp 3 – Camp Colera (Approx. 5,900 m): It is from this final camp that we usually push for the summit in one long effort—to the top and back to camp for one last night before heading to Base Camp the following day.
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Aconcagua Summit (6,962 m).
The time has come for the final summit push toward the top of South America’s highest peak.
"It’s cold now... that kind of real cold that bites your cheeks and sends the body into a near-state of stress. The summit attempt on South America’s highest mountain—Aconcagua (6,962 m)—is underway."
I am now back in Norway and have some time to reflect on another fantastic trip and expedition in Argentina.
"It is still dark, and at least a few hours remain before the sun hits us, bringing the feeling of warmth and new energy. My team of strong individuals works slowly but surely up the mountain toward a truly magical view from the summit. Only a few hundred meters to go, and I know now that everyone on the team will reach the top! The many hours of hard work are forgotten... for a moment, at least... and together we raise our arms. We f***** did it!"
This time was very special for me. Great success with 11 men and women on the summit... and all that. I feel proud and humbled that we succeeded once again, but on this trip, the team itself was the greatest success. Seeing people work together and offer their individual skills to optimize the collective is something truly special—and that is what mountaineering and expeditions are all about. Being able to lead and guide people toward achieving their big dreams and ambitions is something truly extraordinary.
What do I bring on an expedition?
With a minimum of 90 and up to 200 travel days a year on trips and expeditions around the world, having the right equipment and clothing is vital to me. What one brings in terms of climbing gear, sleeping bags, backpacks, and down jackets is very individual, extensive, and depends on experience, budget, and preferences. What is more important to me—and where I am both critical and very meticulous—is the choice of base layers: my insulating layers of wool, fleece, and synthetic fibers.
My inner layers are, and always have been, made of wool. For me, there is no other material that protects, performs, and keeps me warm quite like high-quality wool. Then there is my choice of socks—likewise wool, or a combination featuring at least 50% wool. On this trip, as with most others, I primarily use products from my partners and sponsors. Whether it is down, shells, synthetics, or—as highlighted in this report—wool from LOOW, they are all carefully selected.
For this trip, I brought the following products from LOOW:
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T-OSS 135 O-NECK x 2: A thin, high-quality T-shirt.
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T-OSS 220 O-NECK: Perfect fit; ideal as a primary base layer.
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ZN-240 Men’s Zip Neck x 2: A true favorite and a reliable choice for cold days and during the summit push.
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P-240 Merino Sweatpants: Comfortable with a slightly loose design; works great in the tent or combined with synthetic/shell pants.
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Merino Boxers B-180 and B-170 Airknit® Boxers: An essential product on every trip. 4–5 pairs plus regular underwear is sufficient for a trip like this.
One of the advantages of high-quality wool products is the extended usage period during which the product still functions optimally: 5–10 days of heavy daily use involving sweating and subsequent drying, along with the heavy wear from a heavy backpack and fluctuating temperatures.
Another advantage is that you can easily and quickly rinse your products in warm water (if weather permits) and let them dry in the sun, the tent, or the bottom of your sleeping bag if nothing else is possible. Even faster—and something that works almost as well—is simply airing out your wool products after use.
